Renaissance trio a class act
David Sutherland, The Border Mail, 2 September 2011
Rutherglen Estates has just released the new vintages of its flagship Renaissance range. This is significant for a number of reasons.
Firstly the trio of wines includes a white, which would not have been thought possible a decade or so ago. Rutherglen has traditionally been red and fortified wine territory but with better white-winemaking techniques and more appropriate varieties well suited to the terroir, better results have cometh!
And secondly the wines are very good. The whole deal, including the packaging, is classy and the wines themselves really do their bit for raising the profile of the generic Rutherglen brand.
The early vintages of the Renaissance range, made by winemaker Nicole Esdaile, were ground-breaking wines. The new vintages have been crafted by current winemaker Marc Scalzo who enunciates the background to the company's by-line of "redefining the traditions of one of the world's best fortified wine regions" by saying "we grow a number of differing varieties in Rutherglen and we strive to produce a range of wines which best reflect the region, its soil, climate and the terroir. We recognise the potential of Rutherglen to make world class dry table wines that deliver quality and varietal character."
The VRM is a wonderful wine - rich, complex, beautifully balanced in its componentry - and although not cheap it is a steal considering its quality and elegance.
The Zinfandel is a curio in itself but such a good drink as well. It's spicy, elegant and complex - in contemplation, it reminds me very much of a really good Spanish rioja, with its quite obvious oak in the old style but lots of savoury fruit and immense drinkability.
The Durif 2007 is certainly more traditionally Rutherglen in style. Ripe, with intense dark berry fruit aromas and flavours, super imposed with heaps of spice and chocolate characters, and considerable classical dry firm tannins on the finish. This needs lots of extra time in the bottle to soften and integrate further and it benefits greatly from teaming with the right food - pan-seared kangaroo fillet or venison.
This is the flagship range but the rest of the Rutherglen Estates range hits well above its weight in terms of quality and value. The whites are a mixture of classical French and Italian varieties with a few interesting and really good oddballs thrown in. The Italian Arneis, Pinot Grigio and Fiano are really interesting and of good quality - obviously well suited to the regional climate and well handled in the winery. And try the famous Savagnin as well; it's the famous vin jaune variety from France's Jura region.
Rutherglen Estates Renaissance VRM 2009
'Sounds like an acceleration expletive, doesn't it, but it is in fact the abbreviation for Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, the three varieties used for this flagship white of Rutherglen Estates. These grape varieties work so well together providing tropical and citrus characters with toasty oak in the background. With food: flavoursome fish or poultry'
To be released mid-October.
Rutherglen Estates Renaissance Zinfandel 2008
'An ever-popular favourite in the US, where it is used to make all styles of wine, from rose to fortifieds. Medium deep in colour, the nose is all brambly red fruits and savouriness with hints of mocha. The palate is elegant but with lovely red berry fruits, subtle liquorice and mocha characters, fine dry ripe tannins and long length. Moorish! With food: spicy casseroles or Spanish chorizo'
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